Interior and exterior systems that keep lake-country water out of the house.

What we install

• Exterior footing drains

  We excavate to the footing, set perforated tile in washed stone, wrap it, and run it to daylight or a pit. Waterproof membrane on the wall. Grade pitched away from the house. This is the system a house should have been given in 1968.

• Interior French drain

  When you cannot tear up the landscaping — or the water is already coming through the floor joint — we cut a channel at the perimeter, set tile, and dump to a sump. The slab stays. The carpet can come back.

• Sump, battery backup, discharge

  A drain without a reliable sump is a pond. We size the pit, the pump, and a battery or water-powered backup. Discharge goes where it will not reflood the neighbor or your own footing.

• Waterproofing the wall

  Membrane or dimple board on the exterior. Hydraulic cement and interior sealer only as a complement — paint is not a drain. We treat the source.

• Egress windows & wells

  Code-legal escape from a basement bedroom, more light, and a well that drains instead of filling like a bucket. Tied into the same tile as the footing drain.

• Crawlspace encapsulation

  Vapor barrier on walls and floor, sealed seams, conditioned or vented the right way, insulation that does not sit in mud. Stops the musty cabin smell that comes back every June.

• Yard and driveway drainage

  Swales, catch basins, downspout extensions that actually reach past the backfill. Ice dams and ice sheets on the walk are often a roof-and-grade problem, not just a shovel problem.

• After the flood

  If we just extracted your basement, this is the follow-up. Dry the house, then give the water a path that is not through the block.